The 4C's - well, AH - have organised a trip to Scotland again this winter, and it almost feels like a tradition now, harkening back to
the days of yore. Following
last year's Cairngorms, we're going to Fort William this year. Here, as an aide memoire, is a pic of most of the stuff I'm taking. I'm driving alone in the car so can afford to take whatever I feel like.
So we have:
* (green bag on left): Miranda's boots and raincoat
* (grey bag on top with stripey stuff): misc winter clothes likely not to be used (spoiler: they weren't)
* (black bag rightwards): Daniel's yellow sleeping bag, a bivvi sac, and inners for me and E; I expect to use none of that (and didn't)
* (white bag above that): rock shoes, chalk: since E has invited me bouldering on Thursday night
* (small black bag rightwards): my usual "little black bag" of compass, spare batteries, spare glasses, lip salve, headtorch
* (purple bag): my walking boots, and my old plastic boots, to go with the skis
* (black and white holdall): two new tech axes, two old tech axes, two lightweight axes, two aluminium crampons and one steel, and the new Leopards, E's helmet, two Z-fold poles and two telescopic poles
* (blue bag): std gear bag, which I guess I'll sort on Friday night, or maybe Thursday
* (rope bag): old slinky blue; new slinky orange 60m, new non-slinky blue, my helmet, E's harness (my two are in the gear bag)
* (in front): my old skis with Silvretta 404 bindings (and, not shown: poles). I might get a chance to try them, who knows. And hope to hire some modern bindings for a day, too.
In my big blue rucksac: old green warm waterproof trousers; new black waterproof trousers; raincoat; down jacket; thin yellow spare raincoat; walky-talkies; yellow bag with chargers and cables.
Also to take: car food, and enough pasta to get us through Friday night if we need it; and 4 x 100g fruit+nut bars.
In retrospect: I took too much stuff, though it didn't actually matter much so maybe I didn't. Had I paid more attention to the wx, I could have skipped the skis and old boots; and I could have pre-winnowed the ropes perhaps.
What actually happened
A quick run through; I don't think I need to trouble you with details. Full pix for the trip are here; just mountain ones here.
Thurs: drive up, starting off about 9, a few stops along the way, most notably at Barter Books in Alnwick and a walk along the coast just before Bamburgh. Arrive at Edinburgh before 8, join E and Milo at The Climbing Hangar for a fun hour and a bit of climbing, nice to be on totally new stuff; then back to their flat, sleep overnight on their sofa.
Friday: wander to the National Gallery in the morning, discovering war memorials in the gardens along the way, and look again at the collection. More slowly this time, with several stops for coffee and fish-n-chips for lunch; discovering that the collection is smaller than I'd remembered, but still good. Leave with E about half 3; arrive with no stops around 7. The hostel is actually about 2.5 miles out of Fort William in Glen Nevis; this is fine for us, with a car, but might have been annoying if we'd been on foot. Present: us, Laurent, Andy Buckley, Seb. They make a chilli; I preserve the remains for tomorrow; we discuss what-to-do and decide on walking in from the North Face car park.
Saturday: [GPS] up at 6 as decided, b'fast, I'm ready by 7 but Larent is a little late, never mind, we're ready to start walking at 8. Trundle up, mostly in the dry, it is nominally 2 hours into the CIC hut; we manage 1:45, then have a brief break while L+A, who have places tonight, drop stuff. Andy Halley and Jon are presumed climbing up above somewhere. On the basis of <caution> about avalanche risk - Laurent is far more cautious than me - we're doing Ledge Route not a gully. L+A are a party; E and Seb and I will be another, but I'll be relying on L's route finding. At least from below the line of the route is unclear, but then again the cloud level is on the cliffs. There's no snow at the hut but there is by the time we're getting into the gully. As it turns out the route finding is easy; the route itself is natural, there are some footsteps, and there are a couple of other parties. A good route, but long. Wx is cloud, and some rain, and "warm", so we're all a bit damp by the top. I've stuffed up my gloves game - I need to have a spare dry pair accessible but don't; I should have swapped before going over the top but didn't, I should have dried my glasses ditto - so when we finish we come out of comparitive calm into rather strong winds, sufficient that after a bit we abandon hope of actually going to the summit. For the records, the Ben Nevis forecast was 45 mph; that gets you wind strong enough that facing into it is literally painful. Fortunately L navigated us off happily, with the aid of the OS app. Really I should have tried using the Strava heatmap to do the same, but was sufficiently cold-in-the-hands, and fogged-in-the-glasses, that I just let him do it. After a while, perhaps half an hour, we've come down far enough that we can see a bit, and the wind is less, and things go more easily. Around where we take crampons off we've come to above the lochan, where there's a clear path branching off down, so E and Seb and I take that, trusting there's a path from lochan back to the NF path. And... there is, sort of, rather wet underfoot but not actually boggy; you have to continue quite a long way to get to the bridge below the dam to get over the main river. Looking in arrears I think we would have been better just going up the path behind the hostel, which is actually a good path and not boggy at all, and would have made descent easy. Soir: E and I have reheated chilli - and then she has some pasta too - while Seb gets a pizza.
Sunday: [GPS] Seb decides to go back on the train - he has been up since Thurs - and E and I decide on an easy low level walk prior to her taking the 5 pm train home, since the wx today is no better and we don't fancy another long day in the wet. And so we do the Cowhill circuit, with nice views either back to Ben Nevis - still in cloud - or the loch. This bookended by coffee, and then lunch, in The Old Deli. After, to Nevis Sport then Ellis Brigham to get <stuff> in my case to small - #1 and #2 - friends; in E's case some new mountain boots, since her old ones, although nice, are really wearing out all over. Soir: pasta, and a beer. Oh, impressions of Fort William: a bit of a dump. Sorry. Not helped by a grey wet visit, but the way the A82 runs along the loch front rather ruins the ambience.
Monday: [GPS] all alone I get to decide what to do; Strava heat maps show me Stob Ban and Mullan nan Coirean as a circuit so I give that a go; it turns out well. As expected there's quite a lot of up - SB is 999 m - but I can cope with that and have plenty of spare at the top. Navigating purely by heatmap - because of the clouds - works, and although it is somewhat unnerving to commit myself - because there's decent and re-ascent, so after this point I can't simply walk back easily - it is also exciting. There are also occasional footprints. I'm carrying an axe but don't need it, though I consider getting it out on the final slopes up to SB. From SB it is really a walk around the ridge at the head of the corrie of the Allt a Choire Dheirg. And so back. I've managed my gloves rather better this time. Soir: moved from our 4-bed room to a "dormitory" which had 7 beds I think; but I was the only occupant.
Tuesday: time to go home I think. Wx is not improving. Drive along looking over the loch; stop briefly in Glencoe village but it isn't interesting; consider stopping in Glencoe but cloud halfway down the hills puts me off. Stop at Tyndrum; pass the Kelpies; around Edinburgh; stop for an afternoon walk along the sands on the N side of Bamburgh this time, lovely [GPS]; at Barter Books; and so it is about 7 when I get into Durham so just as well I didn't linger in Glencoe. Find "City Hotel and Bar", which is conveniently central. It was lying about having parking, as I suspected, but the main carpark is nearby and I stop for a pint in The Boathouse on the way back; what I didn't realise is that its windows would be thin and the outside have shouty students and traffic till late; but never mind I sleep.
Wednesday: up early no breakfast wander Durham [GPS]. Highlights the river, and the cathedral. Which is kind-of Hereford like: rather heavy and dark outside, thick Norman columns inside. But with redeeming features of interest. After that, it is four hours drive home.